Thursday, May 14, 2026
Monday, May 11, 2026
Narrow two-hole brick patterned band in red, yellow, and blue
I showed a pic of this band shortly after I started it. Here it is after I finished, though before soaking/blocking.
I included an American quarter and an American dime in this pic, for scale, to help the recipient visualize the actual dimensions. The band is 7mm wide and roughly 2.4m long (a bit more then 1/4" wide and 95-ish" long).
It's pretty adorable! As always, I love the texture of the 2-hole brick patterning.
I've started a companion band for the same recipient, in the same colors but a different pattern. It'll be a threaded-in design, 4-threaded rather than 2-threaded. The design will be simple, paying homage to some specific existing historic patterns.
Both bands are meant to be plausible for Anglo-Saxon cultures that are post-Roman but pre-Conquest. Sure, they're cotton rather than wool, silk, or bast fiber (linen/hemp/nettle), but I wanted the dimensions and patterns/techniques to be consistent with the actual evidence.
The one I started takes some ideas that are consistent with the Coppergate/York band, as well as having motifs that are found in other western and northern European cultures of that approximate time. Well, OK, that approximate time includes a good many centuries and a good many cultures, but I don't need to be too precise here.
The one in the pic above uses a structure and motif from the Finnish Iron Age finds. There are Anglo-Saxon bands from various cemetery and other archaeological finds that do use this two-hole tablet-weaving technique even though color has not remained and/or wasn't analyzed. An interesting variety of tablet-weaving techniques were used by the Anglo-Saxons, and they weren't too picky about the material they used, either. Chances are that people in general just used what was easily available/affordable to them, but given how rare it is to find well-preserved textiles, very little evidence remains, and it is skewed by various preservation biases. Anyway, given that two-hole tablet-weaving has been documented in Anglo-Saxon tablet-weaving, and given the dyes known and available to people at that time, my little dotted band seems plausible to me.
Brocaded bands show fairly simple motifs ("steps, crosses, and chevrons" according to Nancy Spies). Also, the Anglo-Saxon metal-brocaded bands tended to be very narrow bands that were either used as headbands or to edge veils, according to how the evidence has been interpreted. The band I'm starting is not brocaded, but the brocade patterns do give a sense of the kinds of motifs that were popular at the time.
A few of the non-brocaded bands that have remnants of color (shades of mostly decomposed dark brown and darker brown, mostly, with some exceptions) show chevrons or diamonds or blocks, maybe. The York band clearly had some kind of threaded-in color pattern in a design that was probably fairly simple, whether it was stripes or diamonds or chevrons or zigzags.
Sure, more complicated techniques were known, and wider bands were made, but I'm not trying to re-create something that would have been worn by the wealthiest or highest status people. (I finally found the papers I'd been looking for by Grace Crowfoot and Penelope Walton Rogers, yay!)
I also looked at a few illuminations. They show that clothing probably did have patterned borders. But the designs aren't necessarily ones that are easy to make with tablet-weaving. So it's either artistic license (since the motifs match motifs on other items in the illumination) or a variety of techniques were used to decorate the clothing borders (such as embroidery or some other kind of weaving or fabric stamping/painting, or maybe these are meant to be tablet woven brocade). Or both or something else entirely.
The motifs on the illustrations I saw included circles (with a dot inside) and spiral motifs (which would look something like the S on the famous Finnish Iron Age bands, or would look like Kivrim patterns even though those are mostly documented from a much different place and time). They also showed (in general, not necessarily the clothing) lots of fun interlacements and other ornamental doodlings. I need to double-check to see what centuries these are from, because it might be from later centuries rather than earlier. Also, I'm still quite ignorant about all this, so all of the above might be hogwash.
There's also the embroidery evidence, especially in the later centuries. I don't remember the exact reference but there's some stuff about going towards more flowing and botanic motifs in the later years. I don't know if that would carry over to the simple bands that edged clothing. Those motifs would be achievable with 3/1 twill, double-face, Sulawesi, brocade, and some other techniques. All except Sulawesi are techniques that were known to the Anglo-Saxon tablet-weavers, and there is one band that actually has a Sulawesi-compatible tablet orientation (/ / \ \ / / \ \ etc.) so it's not completely impossible. I don't want to do anything too time-consuming for this band and I don't want it to be monochrome, so I'm going with a threaded-in 4-holed pattern that uses the 3-and-1 color scheme that the York band does (the York band has several tablets with 3 red and 1 probably-unbleached-linen thread along with tablets that had other color mixes) and is consistent with the kinds of simple threaded-in geometric patterns found throughout that part of the world.
Anyway.
I'm not really trying for true authenticity. But hopefully the band will be reasonable attractive and will be at least somewhat consistent and/or compatible with Anglo-Saxon aesthetic mores even though neither of the bands will exactly match a known historic/archaeologic specimen.
And I seem to use lots of parentheses in my bloviating.
Monday, May 4, 2026
A 5-strand braid in the Fill the Gap family
The above is a crude diagram, showing how the traveling thread jumps and where its new position is. After it's in its new position, rotate the disk and continue doing the same thing.
Sunday, May 3, 2026
Early May Progress Report
Wednesday, April 29, 2026
A 9-strand braid in the Fill-the-Gap family
I saw this 9-strand straw braid on Facebook ( https://www.facebook.com/reel/1282550473504103 ) and immediately saw how easy it would be to translate to other things besides straw.
It's in the fill-the-gap braid family, where a simple, repetitive, easy-to-memorize pattern leads to a lovely braid.
And indeed it did.
I took a piece of cardboard (square because I'm lazy, though round or other shapes are fine), put a hole in the middle, and cut 16 slots around the edge (4 per side on my square piece of cardboard). This disk doesn't have to be perfect -- it's only to hold the yarn under light tension. I did 16 slots so I'd have a blank slot between groups of yarn as I rotated around the disk.
Obviously one doesn't need any kind of disk -- it can be done in the hand, or on a marudai, or by means of whatever other aids you find useful.
Take 9 strands of yarn (or thread or straw or whatever). Since I'm using yarn, I knotted the end and pushed it down through the hole. Then I put two strands per side (each in two adjacent slots). I put the last piece on one of the sides, next to the two strands that are already there.
Take the outermost strand on the side with 3 strands and jump it over to the other side of the adjacent set of 2 strands. Repeat.
Here's a rough diagram. You can see how there are 3 groups of two strands and 1 group of 3 strands. The strand that is marked in blue jumps over to the other side of the adjacent group of two (the intended destination is shown as a dashed blue line). Rotate (or not) the disk and continue doing the same thing.
You can go either clockwise or counterclockwise as long as you are consistent with the traveling strand going over four other strands. Dunno how easy it would be to reverse direction but it's probably not impossible.
I'm sure this generalizes to a lot of other set-ups, too -- quite possibly any multiple of X while using that multiple plus one. The fill-the-gap works on the opposite principle -- a multiple of X while using that multiple minus one. There are many other possibilities, of course. I might have to do some playing around...
I may post a photo of the completed braid, especially if I also do a few more experiments either with different colors or with different braiding patterns. Or not, because there are other things ping-ponging around in my brain at the moment and one of those might emerge first.
Sunday, April 26, 2026
The two-hole band from the Brooklyn Museum
Friday, April 24, 2026
Initial Musings on the Anglo-Scandinavian Band from Coppergate (York, 10th century)
Long and boring rambling about something I've been reading about lately:
I've been thinking about weaving a version of the Coppergate tablet-woven band. It was found during an excavation in York. The actual find is a group of eight tied cords, but the appearance of the cords and how they are arranged imply that this was once a tablet woven band, and that its weft has long since rotted away. It is artifact 1340 in the report The Archaeology of York The Small Finds 17/5, "Textiles, Cordage and Raw Fibre from 16-22 Coppergate" by Penelope Walton, 1989.
Some of the cords have a space for a missing ply, and that is interpreted to have been a vegetable fiber, also rotted away. The rest of the cords are silk.
The original colors are hard to determine. "Most of the cords are now dark brown, but one is a lighter shade, and adjacent to this is the 4-ply cord, consisting of two black and two light brown warp threads. Originally the darker threads were probably red and purple, as dyestuffs madder and ?indigotin plus madder were detected." Later in the report, it is stated that actual madder (Rubia tinctorum) was used based on properties that make it distinct from other local possibilities such as wild madder and lady's bedstraw. Indigotin is interpreted as woad (Isatis tinctoria) based on the local presence of woad and also on historical reasons why imported indigo (Indigofera tinctoria) would have been unlikely.
Yellow dyes, if present, would be gone. The archaeological dig did discover Genista tinctoria (dyer's greenweed) in addition to woad and madder, so yellow is entirely possible as one of the dye components. Red + blue does seem likely to have been purple. But the threads that are merely light brown warp threads? Or the ones with madder? Were they dyed with yellow or dyed with yellow in addition to the detected dye colors? If so, the ones with madder could have been red or could have been orange. Also, madder itself has a range of red-toned colors, including pink, salmon, coral, red, orange, and even brick red.
The light brown silk could have once been yellow or green (if there's some blue left in it). It's possible that the light brown silk was undyed and thus a golden yellow, but why would they have done that when linen would have been a reasonable substitute? Or maybe it was a light tan or otherwise some kind of brown, which is also relatively easy color to achieve. Or a madder or indigo exhaust bath, with a lighter color that has since deteriorated beyond detection.
The missing warp thread, if indeed linen or another similar bast fiber, might well have been white. I know the Coptic bands tended to use linen for white and dyed wool for colors. Other Anglo-Saxon bands such as the chasuble for Sts. Harlindis and Relindis mix dyed silk and undyed linen. Linen is cheaper than silk and makes an easy white, I suppose, especially when bleached. Dunno if it would have been dyed -- doesn't indigo stick to pretty much all fibers without needing a mordant?
The cords are twisted ZSZSZZSZ, but in my opinion, it's certainly possible that they might not be in the original order any longer. Given that there are five Z and three S, it is obviously not as simple as an alternating S Z configuration.
Here is what the entire band looks like. This pic is taken from another publication by The Archaeology of York 17/11 The Small Finds "Textile Production at 16-22 Coppergate" by Penelope Walton Rogers. I'd provide something larger, but alas, the resolution isn't quite good enough to see enough details. The light-colored cords are definitely light-colored in comparison to the dark ones, though. And the number of cords varies along the length as, one supposes, some of them disintegrated over the years. The remaining bits are 1.47m in length.
Here is a section near the top, blown up to almost the limits of reasonableness, which shows the two brown shades that remain in the band after all these years underground.
It might be possible to put some of the cords (i.e. tablets) in order since some of them do seem to be in approximately the same place for the entire length of the band. But this could be from how it was excavated, preserved, and displayed, I suppose.
I've found some references online to people who have made a plausible re-creation.
https://eoforwicproject.com/2021/09/20/a-10th-century-tablet-woven-band-of-silk-from-york/ wove a band based on the known information. She credits Alicja of Hrafna Norse Crafts, who did some interpreting and also provided a chart here: https://m.facebook.com/nt/screen/?params=%7B%22note_id%22%3A1411484119062360%2C%22entry_point%22%3A%22MOBILE_POST_ATTACHMENT%22%7D&path=%2Fnotes%2Fnote%2F&state
Hrafna interprets the cords as follows:
1 tablet -- 2 threads of madder + indigotin, 2 lighter colored, all silk
1 tablet -- 3 threads of lighter colored silk, 1 missing (linen?)
6 tablets -- 3 threads of madder (silk), 1 missing (linen?)
She believes that this is an asymmetric band, with a 2-tablet edge on one side (both Z oriented), and alternating SZ red-and-white stripes for the rest.
Other possibilities (I'm just noodling around here):
The 6 tablets with madder could be in the center, and there is one edge tablet on each side.
The 6 tablets with madder could be aligned into chevrons (ZZZSSS or vice versa) rather than alternating S and Z.
The 6 tablets with madder could be aligned to make horizontal stripes, or they could be some other pattern such as diagonal lines or chevrons or spots.
The other two tablets could be somewhere besides the edge(s).
There are definitely bands out there with horizontal stripes and asymmetric bands, so Hrafna's interpretation is perfectly reasonable. There are also bands out there with chevrons.
Anglo-Saxon brocaded bands I'm aware of are variable, with arrows and diamonds and patterns that I'm not sure what they're supposed to be. Those are from a different part of the island, though, possibly a different culture, possibly a different time, and of course brocaded rather than threaded-in.
Also, I believe that Hrafna's interpretation is that the madder-and-missing-thread tablets consist of 3 S and 3 Z, with the other two both being Z. But it's not clear from Walton's text whether this is actually what's going on.
Also also, Hrafna points out that the drawing in Walton's paper only shows seven cords even though the text refers to eight tablets. So who knows? Hrafna's interpetation calls for eight tablets.
Additionally, Walton and everyone else interpret the missing thread in the cords/tablets to have been a bast fiber. What if it actually is an intentional missing hole? It's not that likely, I don't believe, but it's not impossible.
Here is the Hrafna interpretation (in natural-dyed wool and undyed linen).
And here is the Eoforwic interpretation that uses the same chart but different colors for the edge tablets (I'm not sure if this is wool/linen or silk/linen).
All of these are lovely.
I'm playing around on one of the charting apps, trying out various possibilities. I'm not sure yet what I'll do. After going through the above ruminations, I feel comfortable with pretty much anything I decide to try.
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Also in Walton's report is a little bit on cords. There are no obvious fingerlooped braids or anything, but there are 3-strand plaits (the same one people usually use to braid their hair). The ones that were excavated were made from hair moss or a mix of hair moss and flax stems (i.e. the bast fibers not specifically removed and then spun). Twisted cords (both plied cords and cabled cords) were also made, from bast fibers and from wool. There's also a picture of some "knotted wool yarns" that sure looks like a weaver's knot.
Other dyes found in various textiles include kermes and lichen-purple. The identified species are more likely to have been from the eastern Mediterranean, so chances are that either the dyes or the dyed thread/textiles were imported. But neither of those was detected on the tablet woven piece.
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Internet searching is REALLY awful these days. I had downloaded the various reports and stuff long ago, luckily. I was trying to find the links today using a search engine, and well, no luck. AI decided I meant something entirely different and would only show me links related to what it thought I wanted. Or would show me citations in other websites, but not the original article, even though I had bookmarked them as well as downloading them. It is very sad. Hopefully I'll have more luck with google scholar and maybe even archive.org, though google scholar does tend to route me to sites where I'd have to pay to access an article/website, sigh. I mourn the Internet that Was and hope that some enterprising company will resurrect a working search engine that doesn't try to "help" me with AI garbage. I also hope that the once-free archives that were purchased and put behind paywalls become free to access again.
Thursday, April 23, 2026
Another colorful Oseberg band
A friend was admiring the colorful Oseberg band I did a while back. Another friend has been experimenting with making tablets. So.... I made another Oseberg band using the new tablets.
Saturday, April 11, 2026
Some of my tablet-weaving tablets
Thursday, April 9, 2026
Another little distraction -- the tablet-woven band from the Brooklyn-Museum, New York, Inv. No. 15.445
I've been thinking about this rather charming 2-hole pattern for a while.
So I warped it up and decided to use it as a vehicle for exploration and learning.
As you can see, the left side of the band (near the beginning) is narrower and the diamonds are more elongated. I've been playing with how tight I pull the weft to see the effects on the aspect ratio of the diamonds. In the middle or a bit to the right, the weft is so loose that it's leaving little bloops along the edges. Dunno if the band will spread out more or it that's kind of it. However, the diamonds are not nearly as elongated. The far right of the above shows how tight I'm currently pulling the weft, which is still loose-ish but not so loose as to have big bloops.
I like the wider band with diamonds that are not as elongated, so that's what I'll keep doing. I'll probably do a bit more experimenting before trying to settle down to one width.
Dunno if I'll make the far end of the band do something similar (i.e. narrow down) to pretend I meant to do it that way. Probably not, though I'll see what I feel like doing when I get there.
Another thing that I'm experimenting with is only turning the edge tablets when the weft is about to go through it/them. That means they turn once every other row, alternating right and left edges. It's supposed to help with being able to beat the weft in harder. I think it does that -- the first pattern repeats on this band have the edges turning every row, with the later ones being every other row. I think there's a bit of a difference. So that will be useful for a lot of future projects in various techniques.
This band is from Tablet Woven Bands from Egypt by Silvia Aisling Ungerechts, p. 44-45, the tablet-woven band from the Brooklyn-Museum, New York, Inv. No. 15.445. I recharted it, of course, to make sure I understood what I was doing.
The original band is here: https://brooklynmuseum.org/objects/9178. The red is wool (almost certainly madder-dyed) and the yellow is linen and probably was once a lot closer to white. It is labeled as being from Coptic Egypt, 5th-6th century CE. The original is 3/4" wide but mine is probably a bit wider, not that I care. I mean, I could get mine to be 3/4" wide, but that would affect the appearance of the lozenges/diamonds. Chances are that I'd need to use a different material (either fiber content or thickness or how it's spun or what the weft is or some combo) to get mine to look more like the original. Or perhaps stick it in the ground in Egypt for 1500 years or so.
Mine is the usual big-box-store #10 crochet cotton, both warp and weft. There are 32 tablets -- 30 2-holed pattern tablets, and 1 4-holed edge tablet on each side. The pattern is a basic F/B turning sequence, nothing fancy.
The pattern is cute enough but I think I like the little diamond band from the Louvre better, at least so far. I do love doing (and admiring) 2-hole tablet weaving so I'm not complaining!
Sunday, March 29, 2026
Lots of little pinwheels
That went fast!
The band is about 1cm wide by about 170 cm long (3/8" x 68"). It is, of course, reversible. The photos show both sides of the band.
Saturday, March 28, 2026
Time for some little pinwheels
Thursday, March 26, 2026
I like zig-zags
The pattern is from someone's project on Ravelry: https://www.ravelry.com/projects/Patrick-Zein/warp-6-lingonberry-belt
Friday, March 13, 2026
Flash (in a flash)
Thursday, March 12, 2026
Space! and a bit of Time!
It's been a busy few months. My little weaving area has been in storage for way longer than planned.
But finally, I've managed to find some time and the weaving area was available, and now I'm set up again for a bit of weaving.
I'm doing a very simple pattern, Flash, by Catherine Weaver, from her blog: https://www.tabletweavingintheoryandpractice.co.uk/2024/06/flash.html
I expanded it by another 10 tablets (another set of alternating light/dark pattern motifs) because I wanted a wider band. I'm not sure who will end up with it, but it could be a strap for a musical instrument or a case/bag/purse, or a belt, etc., as well as just being used for trim. So I wanted something that was at least an inch or so wide since that seemed like a more useful width for its eventual purpose. Having it be reversible was important, and I also wanted something that would be quick to weave. Usually I set up something like stripes, but this pattern caught my eye. It's only slightly more complicated than stripes and still has a stripe-like feel.
The colors in the original are red and yellow. I'm using teal and sage, in my usual big-box-store #10 crochet cotton. Why teal and sage? They have good color contrast, I have a fair amount of each color, and I don't use these colors as often, especially for historic patterns, so this is a good opportunity to use them for something cute. Plus the two colors look good together.
It's going well. I do like the rhythm of tablet weaving, even something as simple as this. I'd make this pattern again because it's very striking, lots of bang for the buck.
I took a photo of the band-in-progress but the light is wrong so it's hard to see the pattern motifs. Eh, not so important. I'd rather get a post out on this blog (the first in MONTHS!!!) rather than spend a lot of time on my nearly non-existent photo skills. Therefore, this post is text only, no pics.
Hopefully I'll be able to keep doing stuff after this band is finished.













