More blathering on simple one-step disc braids

Here are some further thoughts on these extremely easy one-step disk braids I've been making lately (the 7-strand fill-the gap and others in the Braid Society handouts, the 4X+1 braids I recently did, etc.).  I'm trying to keep track of my thoughts and interesting things I've found so I don't forget.  Not all of these thoughts will end up being useful, correct, etc.  And yeah, I'm probably gonna use disk and disc somewhat interchangeably.

I went looking in Noemi Speiser's Manual of Braiding to see if I could find something to match what I've been doing.

I'm not sure, because Noemi Speiser is a braiding master and I am a wee grasshopper.

But I think these braids are described as Tubular Braids, and in particular, as a subhead under "18C Tubular Linking", namely "18C.3. Three or More Span Floats."  The little diagram shown as 18*26(d) sure looks like the kind of thing that we're doing here, though with different numbers than I've been using so far.

I looked at Ashley's Book of Knots and some of the sections on sinnets and other decorative knots, but I don't yet see the braids I'm doing.

If this is actually what these braids are doing, then the number of strands and number of strands jumped over generalize quite nicely, as long as one jumps a number of other threads without a common denominator.  In other words, every strand needs to move/jump before we get back to the original thread, which is very much like Spirograph patterns.  Or one could think about the holes moving instead of the strands, especially for fill-the-gap braids as opposed to the multiple-plus-extra braid.  (Holes and their migrations are a concept that is useful in semiconductor physics and other materials science applications and theories.)

Speiser's version of that is "Note that the total number of threads has a certain relationship with the number skipped between each linking.  If the pattern is not planned appropriately, you will be perplexed to find some threads floating on the surface, which are not engaged in the linkings at all."

Hmm, that implies some design possibilities, doesn't it?  Threads don't have to engage at all and can float, and perhaps one can switch them in and out of the braiding for interesting effects.  Or add beads and baubles.  Or something.  Also, all of these braids can be done around a core, and if the core consists of a bundle of threads, one can switch core threads in and out, as we do with Andean sling braiding techniques.

And, speaking of Andean sling braiding, there are examples of slings with what Adele Cahlender calls "spiral interlinking" around a core, complete with color substitutions.  She shows it as the two-span float method described by Noemi Speiser as "18C.1. Two Span Floats" and "18C.2. Substituting Threads of Contrasting Colour", where Speiser specifically mentions Andean sling braiding.

The braids I've been doing are easy one-step braids where it's very hard to lose your place.  So...  to make a more general braid, one should be able to arrange the strands in a way that makes it easy to repeat one movement over and over, that can be identified without trouble, so that the braid can be picked up and put down easily without having to keep track of where you were.  I think these are a lot of fun which is why I'm sort of exploring them and thinking about teaching them, including the 7-strand Fill the Gap braid but not including the types of braids which combine moves and/or have groups of strands that don't interact with each other such as kongo gumi or the Andean square braids.

I'm going to go back through Ashley's Book of Knots again.   Also, the braid concepts that are being generalized to yarn/thread disk-braiding seem to be coming from the straw-plaiting community.  But google searching sucks and I can't find sites that discuss more than simple 3-strand and 7-strand plaits.  Harumph.  I know they've gotta be out there whether online or in books.

And aha! I've found a few!  The secret term seems to be "spiral plait".  Here's the 5-strand one that matches the 5-strand disk braid I'm doing: https://www.strawcraftsmen.co.uk/project06.php and here's a link to another that has spiral plaits: https://carrickseeds.ca/articles-resources/ornamental-straw-work/.  Plus I found a few links to videos.  Cool, now that I know, I can hopefully find more.

The spiral interlinking thing also seems to be related to some of the basketry I've seen but I don't want to get into that just yet.

This gives me more ideas to play with though some will be on hold for a while.

Sprang project #4 -- two-color acrylic bag

The learning continues.

I used acrylic this time.  And two colors.  I was actually trying for a different color pattern but got myself too confused, so I kept it simple.

There are 16 loops (32 ends total), with 8 of each color, alternating.  I used the frame with 20" PVC sides, and when the tension got too tight, I moved the loops to skewers and taped them to the loom.

I did a basic 1/1 interlinking pattern.

Diagonals!  I'm so pleased!

The acrylic is a little sticky, especially when I'm undoing mistakes.  But on the whole, it behaved reasonably well.

The above is after sewing up.  I did the same figure-8 loop around the threads at the bottom that I've done for most of my projects so far.  Then I sewed up the sides and ran a twisted cord through the loops at the top to use as a drawstring.

The above photo isn't a great angle, but it shows how the diagonals open up into amazingly cute stripes when the bag is stretched over something.

This size is about right for a cell phone or something of similar size.

Things I learned:

I am still quite terrible at sewing up.  Keep working on that...

I should have wriggled the piece to even out the gauge before sewing up.  It might also be a good thing to move the piece to skewers immediately after warping.  Or figure out something else to keep the top from being so loose.  Maybe these things were always attached to something firm, like a band or a purse handle or something?

When sewing up, secure the drawstring so it doesn't fall out of the loops I so carefully set up before sewing.  Also, make sure the drawstring goes in the correct direction.  Perhaps I should have a safety string through the loops that doesn't get untied and removed until after the piece is done?

When hiding ends, don't pull things too tight, and make sure you can loosen the ends to the correct tension before it's impossible to find them again.

Think about matching colors for sewing up the sides.  Should the edges be the same color?  Should I use different colors to sew them?

This is a fun and attractive pattern.  I like the color pattern and how it interacts with the interlinking pattern.  These could also be interesting hand/wrist warmers.  Or a hat.

On the whole, I'm pleased with the lessons I learned from this project.